
Hello Everybody!!
So yesterday was our first full
day in Ghana. Due to a rain storm the night before (we are now in the rainy season) it was a lot

cooler (though still very warm) making everyone a lot happier. After class we had lunch at a local restaurant. I had jouffle (a seasoned rice) with goat, which was delicious. Goat tastes a lot like beef, but I found it to be a little more
flavorful and juicy. Afterwards we went to Krumah's Mausoleum. For those who do not know Ghana's history (I didn't before my courses began) Nkrumah was a Pan-African a

ctivist who fought against colonial rule not just in Ghana (which was ruled by Britain). He subsequently became Ghana's
first prime minister and then president. Though he was democratically elected only 18% of the voting population (won by 57% less than 50% of the pop. voted) voted for him, and he subsequently became a corrupt authoritarian. As a result he has a mixed legacy. Some love and idolize him much like George Washington in the US, others view him negatively for his corruptness and becoming an authoritarian. He was overthrown by coup while out of the country; betrayed by one of his best friends. Many idolize him for being a champion of decolonization and African rights, but others focus on his corruptness. My homestay has several of his books and a tray with his image so you can guess her opinion of him.
Then we went to the Art Center, a large market which primarily sells crafts. When the merchants saw our bus full of 'arbunis' they flocked towards it, banging on the windows trying to sell us goods before we even got off the bus. The moment my feet touched the ground several merchants swarmed around me shaking my hand in the traditional Ghana manner (a pronlonged hand shake that ends with the two people snapping their fingers against one anothers - I'm sure that You tube has a video of it which might better explain what it looks like) the unending string of hands attempting to shake mine has made me pretty good at it now. I now understand how celebrities feel being swarmed by fans and paperassi, its kinda cool for a couple seconds, and then quickly becomes rather stressful. We were all pulled and pushed by merchants to various stands and had things thrust into our faces. They are very intense barterers and I can't help but feel somewhat guilty when I force the price to less than 1/2 of their original demand. Even though I know they are trying to rip me off, I also know how badly they need the money, it is obvious from the intensity of their voice and their desperation when you begin to walk away. The most awkward moment was when, with one merchant I tried to explain to him that though I knew the item was worth more than I was willing to pay I could not afford to meet his demand, and that I would have to buy something of lesser quality and value. They all assume that since I am white and not from Ghana that I have endless amounts of money and that it is not of a concern to me. Which, relative to what Ghanaians make, is true (average wage in Accra, where the more wealthy people live, is 1,000 cedis a year (reminder 1 dollar = 1.4 cedis), the average teacher makes $2,000 cedis a year. Auntie Vic was complaining about how much college costs in Ghana (1 year tuition = 5,000 cedis)) yet I still have to watch what I spend, naturally.
I do not mean in any way to give the merchants a bad rep. They were all extremely friendly, far more friendly than any store clerk I have ever interacted with in the States, there is just a lot of them all at once, and unlike the US you do not have the opportunity to just browse, so I think the stress came more from the overstimulation and strangeness of it all, than anything a merchant did. I had a great experience.
Ta Ta For Now
-H